Eight in ten UK fashion creatives pressured to work for free: Bectu research

• “Underpaid, under-respected and no one to tell”: Bectu survey reveals life behind the scenes of the UK’s fashion industry
• UK fashion creatives not sharing in the industry’s huge economic success – with the majority struggling financially and late payments commonplace
• Toxic and inappropriate behaviour is often tolerated and is impacting the workforce’s mental health

Despite its monumental contribution to the UK economy*, for those working in creative roles in the fashion industry – including stylists, designers, hair and makeup artists, fashion assistants, tailors and photographers, among other roles – it is a story of insecurity, low – or no – pay, and toxic working environments.

Bectu’s fashion branch, Fashion UK, surveyed more than 500 fashion creatives working in roles such as assistants (fashion, makeup/hair, photographer etc), fashion and accessories designers, hair/makeup/nails, photographers, stylists and tailors.

Fashion UK is the UK’s first trade union branch solely for UK-based non-performing fashion creatives.

The survey found that:

1. Just one in ten fashion creatives (10%) say they feel secure in their job.
2.  Only 14% are paid on time for the work they do.
3. Half (51%) of fashion creatives are earning under £30,000 a year before tax from their work in the industry.
4. More than seven in ten have struggled financially (72%) in the past year
5. Eight in ten (79%) have felt pressured to work for free.
6. And 83% say that behaviours that would be considered toxic and inappropriate in public life are often tolerated in the fashion industry.

The responses also paint a bleak picture of poor work/life balance, with more than 7 in 10 reporting struggling with their mental health in the past year, and most (59%) saying their work has negatively impacted their personal relationships.

Comments from the survey include:

 “I’m still amazed by the levels of toxicity in this industry.” – Senior fashion designer

“Under paid, under respected and have no one to tell this to because HR is in the pockets of the CEO, who is our boss.” – Senior creative assistant

“The expectation seems to be that we, as freelancers, can be paid whenever suits the employer. There’s no other industry where you provide a service and all terms are blatantly ignored with no consequences. It feels to me that it’s getting worse year on year.” – Photo assistant

“I’ve had shoes thrown at me, been told certain expenses will be covered and then had the client refuse to pay them. [I’ve worked] 16 hour days during London Fashion Week for as little as £100.” – Freelance fashion assistant

 Commenting on the results, Head of Bectu Philippa Childs said:

“Fashion creatives face many of the same challenges common in the wider creative industries, including low pay, long hours and, at times, toxic workplace cultures. Exploitative practices are unfortunately all too common and can be hidden behind promises of work in a glamorous industry.

“The issues uncovered in our survey should ring alarm bells for the industry, with many fashion creatives telling us they don’t see themselves in the industry in five years’ time.

“Being part of a union is one of the best ways to ensure you have a voice at work, especially if you’re a freelancer. Bectu is committed to making the fashion industry a happier, healthier place to work and we will be diving deeper into these issues.

“If you work in a creative, non-performing role in the UK’s fashion industry, join us and get involved as we fight for change.”

*The British Fashion Council estimates that the fashion industry contributes £37 billion to the UK economy